2. Just before departure

I would like to point out that from the beginning our expedition had an international character. Our “ideological leader” was the American climber, Jeff Gordinier, who together with his wife Judy and our other friends, Don and Holly, are strong supporters of Slovak mountaineering. They are all members of Slovak Mountaineering Union James. Unfortunately, Jeff was not able to participate as a member of this expedition due to problems with his health, but all the American Jamesaks were with us in spirit.

Prior to departure, everything happened just as one expects – major chaos. One key problem turned out to be the issue of tropical diseases, which aren’t exactly common in Central Europe. I found out after discussing this problem with Dr. Stefan Polak, who visited the island in 1999, that Madagascar has few of these diseases. He recommended that we be inoculated against hepatitis A and B, and probably yellow fever. Against malaria we could take Delagil. We are especially grateful for all the interesting and valuable information he gave us from his experiences on the island. I made an appointment at the Epidemic Institute in Bratislava to get inoculated against these “African gifts,” since the doctor had advised it. I then told Sano and Rado to do the same in Kosice. They were vaccinated on their own request, although their doctors looked at them oddly and told them that it would not be necessary. At least all they got was three days of weakness. But by the time our turn came in Bratislava, the situation had changed. Another doctor told us that he called WHO and was informed that for Madagascar we would not need to be vaccinated against Yellow Fever, and so she refused to do it. What to do? Sano, Rado, sorry!

On Wednesday, 6 September, we went to Trek Sport for the equipment. It was a big pile: small bags, big bags, sleeping bags, camel bags for 3 liters. Best of all, Trek Sport’s technical brain, Martin Suchan, had made for us a protection bag for the vital and irreplaceable drill. Damage to this machine would destroy our dreams to make any first ascents. On Thursday, the 7^th, I went to confirm the agreement between Trek Sport and our team. In return for using the equipment, we insured that the Trek Sport logo would be visible in the TV Markiza film.

On Friday, the 8^th, we were still gathering all the gear. I got a water filter because our Madagascar guide Calvin had written to me with advise that in the Tsaranoro region there was a problem with fresh water. Of course, the water filter required sanitizing pills, so Rasto and I went to Austria to buy some. After pantomiming for the druggist what we were looking for (pills to make fresh water in Madagascar), he ordered the tablets and said he’d have them the next day.

Saturday, the 9^th, the fear of forgetting something important made us feel close to panic. First we got the pills in Austria; enough to clean 400 liters. But then, in our last minute rush and panic, Ivan Stefansky and I really screwed up! We left the expensive portal ledge in front of my house unwatched. We really felt like idiots! But maybe the climbing gods were watching over us, because half an hour later our friend, a climber living not far away, appeared at my door and rang. He asked if we might be missing something and gave us portal ledge, which he had taken for safe keeping. It was narrow escape.

Afraid we might forget how to climb while we were busy mounting the expedition, we set off for short climbing trip to Alternative Wall our local crag. It was exactly what we needed to put aside all our problems, and now we were able to look forward for our trip to Madagascar again.

It was a short-lived pleasure, for during the evening I got mail from Calvin in Madagascar with bad news. The car we had arranged to rent had been in an accident and was completely ruined. Although Calvin had tried, he had been unable to find a replacement for the same price – $75 US, per day. He offered us two cars, but the price was $55 higher. I responded that this price was not acceptable for one simple reason: We didn’t have the money. This problem we will have to solve directly in Madagascar. What to do? We will see.